Van Cleef Clasp Styles: Ensure Authenticity in Van Cleef & Arpels Jewellery

Van Cleef & Arpels uses various clasp designs depending on the collection, the type of jewellery, and the era. Let’s delve into some of the most frequently encountered clasps

Lobster Clasp

The lobster clasp is perhaps the most widely used within Van Cleef & Arpels. Particularly within the Alhambra collection. Named after it's resemblance to a lobster claw, this clasp is prized for its security and ease of use.

• Updated Lobster Clasp Design: In the latest VCA releases, you’ll notice that the clasp has evolved. It now features a flatter design, with a distinctive diamond-shaped plate engraved with the Van Cleef logo.

Check out this timeless piece, a Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra 5 Motif Hammered 18K Gold Bracelet. The Alhambra collection is iconic, and these bracelets are one of the most popular choices. They are versatile, can be worn along or stacked. The hammered gold is such exquisite craftmanship and this comes as a full set with both Van Cleef box and Van Cleef certification.

Some pieces will also have a unique serial code engraved on the side of the diamond shape, adding another layer of authenticity. However, this will again depend on when and where the item was manufactured. Not all will have this as an additional way to authenticate. 

You need to be aware of the quality of the engraving, as this is always an indication of real vs fake. Be sure to read our additional blog that goes into further detail about this process.

However, not all modern VCA pieces will use this exact design. Some may still feature older clasp styles depending on production and manufacturing locations.

• Traditional Lobster Clasp: Another commonly seen clasp in older pieces has a more rounded shape. This version does not feature the VCA logo, but instead, often bears the “750” hallmark, denoting 18K gold. If this mark is absent, you might find additional hallmarks like an Eagle or Dog's head on the circular link near the clasp. These hallmarks require a magnifying loop to inspect properly.

This example is on a mesmerising Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra 5 Motif Mother of Pearl 18K Yellow Gold Bracelet that has recently come into stock. This was crafted in 2015. As you can see, the clasp is rounded, a more traditional lobster clasp, whereas the updated clasp is specific to Van Cleef & Arpels, including their logo. 

The Sweet Alhambra collection is known for its more delicate, refined pieces, and the clasp style reflects that. The clasp used in these pieces is smaller and lighter in design than the lobster clasp, catering to the daintier nature of the collection. 

However, we agree that when it comes to these beautiful bracelets this style of clasp adds to the overall design.

Let’s compare two pieces from the same Sweet Alhambra collection. A gorgeous example is a piece that we currently have in stock is this Van Cleef & Arpels Sweet Alhambra Mother of Pearl Butterfly 18k Yellow Gold Bracelet. This has an updated clasp which again includes the VCA logo.

In comparison, we previously sold this Van Cleef & Arpels Sweet Alhambra 18K Yellow Gold White Mother-of-Pearl Heart Bracelet. This has the older style clasp as you can see:

Box or Hinge Clasp

In the Pure Alhambra collection by Van Cleef & Arpels, the fastening mechanisms differ significantly between bracelets and necklaces. While the necklaces typically feature lobster clasps—both the classic rounded style and the newer, more streamlined version—the bracelets incorporate a more distinctive fastening technique known as the box clasp or hinge clasp.

Take a look at this stunning example, a Van Cleef & Arpels Pure Alhambra Black Onyx 18K Yellow Gold Bracelet:

This type of clasp is particularly aesthetically pleasing because it is seamlessly integrated into the Alhambra motif itself. Once the hinge is slotted into place, the clasp becomes almost invisible, maintaining the elegance and symmetry of the bracelet. The discreet nature of this clasp ensures that the iconic Alhambra design remains uninterrupted, offering both a secure fastening system and a refined visual appeal.

In terms of security, the box clasp is highly reliable. Often, this type of clasp will also feature the VCA hallmark and relevant gold purity marks (like "750" for 18k gold), along with the eagle head mark, and VCA logo further guaranteeing the piece’s authenticity.

This thoughtful design ensures that Van Cleef & Arpels' commitment to craftsmanship extends even to the smallest details of their collections, making each piece not only beautiful but also practical and secure for everyday wear.

Did you know the Pure Alhambra collection also offers Mother of Pearl? Just look at this lustrous colour combination:

If you see any items that are no longer available, be sure to complete the form on our website. This adds you to a waiting list and we can contact you as soon as it's back in stock. 

How Van Cleef & Arpels Clasps Are Authenticated

Authentication of VCA jewellery, particularly the clasps, requires attention to several factors. As we have discussed in previous blogs – Counterfeits are rife within the resale market and therefore you need to educate yourself on steps to ensure authenticity. As always, we would recommend using a reputable company that are experts in the field to offer that security.

• Hallmarks: As mentioned, genuine VCA clasps often feature specific hallmarks such as "750" for 18K gold or a symbol like an Eagle for French gold. These marks are typically very small and require a magnifying loop for close inspection.

• Logo and Serial Numbers: Newer pieces are often engraved with the VCA logo along with a unique serial number that corresponds to the piece’s certification papers. This is a major point of authentication for experts.
• Weight and Feel: Van Cleef & Arpels jewellery is known for its solid craftsmanship. Counterfeit pieces often lack the heft and smooth functionality of the clasps that genuine pieces have.

Learn more about how to spot a fake within our previous blog as mentioned.

Conclusion

Understanding the various clasp styles used by Van Cleef & Arpels and how they have evolved is key to identifying and authenticating genuine pieces. Whether you’re buying or selling VCA jewellery, it’s essential to check the clasp design, hallmarks, and overall feel of the piece to ensure its authenticity.